Centipede by Whang-od, a 92-year-old last Filipino traditional tattoo artist

Whang-od hammers the citrus thorn on my ankle.  Photo by Des Quijalvo, a new-found friend I met when I was in search of Whang-od. 

Citrus (lemon) thorn, bamboo sticks, charcoal and an ice cream container: these are treasures to  ApoWhang-od, the last and the oldest traditional tattoo (mambabatok) artist in the Philippines who  passionately tries to make the tradition of tattooing in the Philippines still alive.

And before the traditional artistic treasure of tattooing disappears in the Philippines, I made sure I got the chance  to experience it with the legend's hand, from the  92-year-old Filipina tattoo artist, Apo Whang-od.

Whang-od's precious smile. She doesn't intend to smile because she is too conscious that she doesn't have teeth but, olah,  I was able to capture it.  Whang-od  here with her contagious, candid  and warm laugh.

Whang-od shows grace and strength of  a Filipina despite her age. She is on her 90s but she still goes to the rice field to work whenever she doesn't have guests. She is a petite old woman with traditional tattoos around her body- from her foot, legs, arms, shoulders,  chest and even on her forehead.

I was with my new-found friends, Achie, Ela, Des, Ro and Eitheen, whom I just met in the bus while  heading to Buscalan. It was only when I arrived in Sagada that I decided to get inked by her. The day I learned that she is still alive.

We trekked with our tour guide Kuya Charlie for almost an hour in the mountains of Barangay Buscalan, Kalinga to meet Whang-od. It takes almost an hour of trekking to arrive to Whang-od's community.

Whang-od was not around when we reached her place.  She was still at the rice field.  And after few minutes of waiting, we met Whang-od at her humble house. She was still full of thorns from grasses around her clothes.

Whang-od immediately prepared her  tattoo gears without minding to rest. I wonder if  she washed her hands before preparing for the tattoo session.

I volunteered to be inked first as I was catching up an early morning trip to Bontoc and be back to Manila early in the evening the next day.

She asked me to sit down on a monoblock chair , just right outside there toilet, and put a portion of log to position my right foot. Then she started sketching the centipede design , which she suggested, on my right ankle using the charcoal. Centipede in the Filipino tradition represents the warrior's buddy to protect him/her from harm.

Despite her age, Whang-od I believe don't have difficulty with her sight not like other oldies at her age. She was focused  and amazed that she can even follow the details of her sketch. Her hands were calm. I wonder where she got her strength and calmness despite her age.

For almost an hour, I was so busy enduring the pain and at the same time feeling the fresh air, seeing the scenic view of the mountains, clouds, rice terraces, observing the locals, the wild pigs passing by and the every details of tattoo Whang-od has on her arms.

Whang-od hammered my ankle using  two bamboo stick, one with the citrus thorn and the other stick  to tap for the ink to leave under the skin.

Hearing the hammering sound is a torture but  I didn't  mind. In the first place, I really intend to get inked by her without minding the risk and thrill  traveling alone in a strangers' place. Good thing, I met friends while on my way to Whang-od's place.

This is culture which most Filipinos haven't experienced and just saw it on history books. 

To be honest, Whang-od's way is more painful than the modern way of  tattooing.  I got inked at my back two years  ago but Whang-od's way is more painful than the machine. For me,  its  triple the pain of the machine. I know it was not sanitary and It might get infections but I didn't mind.

After almost an hour, Whang-od finished my centipede tattoo. She stood up and immediately fed the wild pigs before she started tattooing Ro.

Whang-od for me is a Philippine living treasure. She is a Philippine living culture. And being inked by Whang-od, an old woman who devotes her life, she started when she was 16,  for this Filipino tradition not to die, is a great honor that I will never take for granted. She just revived my spirit and be a proud Filipina.

I am few of the luckiest person who was inked by the legendary Apo Whang-od.

Note: I don't encourage you to do this but If you decide to do this,  it is worth the pain,  that's if you are a proud Filipino and if you want this tradition to live until the next generations.

Whang-od busy working on my ankle while I am managing the pain. 

Can this little boy be Whang-od's second-liner,?