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| Whang-od hammers the citrus thorn on my ankle. Photo by Des Quijalvo, a new-found friend I met when I was in search of Whang-od. |
Citrus (lemon) thorn, bamboo sticks, charcoal and an ice cream container: these are treasures to ApoWhang-od, the last and the oldest traditional tattoo (mambabatok) artist in the Philippines who passionately tries to make the tradition of tattooing in the Philippines still alive.
And before the traditional artistic treasure of tattooing disappears in the Philippines, I made sure I got the chance to experience it with the legend's hand, from the 92-year-old Filipina tattoo artist, Apo Whang-od.
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| Whang-od's precious smile. She doesn't intend to smile because she is too conscious that she doesn't have teeth but, olah, I was able to capture it. Whang-od here with her contagious, candid and warm laugh. |
I was with my new-found friends, Achie, Ela, Des, Ro and Eitheen, whom I just met in the bus while heading to Buscalan. It was only when I arrived in Sagada that I decided to get inked by her. The day I learned that she is still alive.
We trekked with our tour guide Kuya Charlie for almost an hour in the mountains of Barangay Buscalan, Kalinga to meet Whang-od. It takes almost an hour of trekking to arrive to Whang-od's community.
Whang-od was not around when we reached her place. She was still at the rice field. And after few minutes of waiting, we met Whang-od at her humble house. She was still full of thorns from grasses around her clothes.
Whang-od immediately prepared her tattoo gears without minding to rest. I wonder if she washed her hands before preparing for the tattoo session.
I volunteered to be inked first as I was catching up an early morning trip to Bontoc and be back to Manila early in the evening the next day.
She asked me to sit down on a monoblock chair , just right outside there toilet, and put a portion of log to position my right foot. Then she started sketching the centipede design , which she suggested, on my right ankle using the charcoal. Centipede in the Filipino tradition represents the warrior's buddy to protect him/her from harm.
Despite her age, Whang-od I believe don't have difficulty with her sight not like other oldies at her age. She was focused and amazed that she can even follow the details of her sketch. Her hands were calm. I wonder where she got her strength and calmness despite her age.
For almost an hour, I was so busy enduring the pain and at the same time feeling the fresh air, seeing the scenic view of the mountains, clouds, rice terraces, observing the locals, the wild pigs passing by and the every details of tattoo Whang-od has on her arms.
Whang-od hammered my ankle using two bamboo stick, one with the citrus thorn and the other stick to tap for the ink to leave under the skin.
Hearing the hammering sound is a torture but I didn't mind. In the first place, I really intend to get inked by her without minding the risk and thrill traveling alone in a strangers' place. Good thing, I met friends while on my way to Whang-od's place.
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| This is culture which most Filipinos haven't experienced and just saw it on history books. |
To be honest, Whang-od's way is more painful than the modern way of tattooing. I got inked at my back two years ago but Whang-od's way is more painful than the machine. For me, its triple the pain of the machine. I know it was not sanitary and It might get infections but I didn't mind.
After almost an hour, Whang-od finished my centipede tattoo. She stood up and immediately fed the wild pigs before she started tattooing Ro.
Whang-od for me is a Philippine living treasure. She is a Philippine living culture. And being inked by Whang-od, an old woman who devotes her life, she started when she was 16, for this Filipino tradition not to die, is a great honor that I will never take for granted. She just revived my spirit and be a proud Filipina.
I am few of the luckiest person who was inked by the legendary Apo Whang-od.
Note: I don't encourage you to do this but If you decide to do this, it is worth the pain, that's if you are a proud Filipino and if you want this tradition to live until the next generations.
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| Whang-od busy working on my ankle while I am managing the pain. |
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| Can this little boy be Whang-od's second-liner,? |
46 comments:
Hi I'm Emil. Right now I'm taking up Multimedia Arts.
My problem is that my topic proposal for my pre-thesis is on hold.
My professors actually love my topic since it's unique.
But they're just afraid that my subject (w/c is WHAG OD) might already be dead since I discussed them that she's already on her 90's.
What they want me is to get an assurance that I can interview her and my other prospects on the area by asking for their consent.
Any comments, suggestions, and answers please.
Since I don't want my time and resources to be wasted. I really want to assure that she's still alive and if she's approachable, open and willing to be interviewed for my video documentary.
And do they also know how to speak Tagalog?
Thanks so much!
CONTACT ME : 0927-706-8683 / emilgarbin12@yahoo.com / twitter: @suhomil
Hi Emil. I thought of that too but, yes, Apo Whang-od is still alive. I went there last just January. Should you be interested to go there, I can be at help. I can give you the contact details of the tour guide which lives in Buscalan, just close to Apo Whang-od's house. She can't speak tagalog but the tour guide can. He can be at help.
Hello,
I just read the article and found it very interesting! I really would like to get a tattoo done by this lovely old lady. I am in the Philippines right now and I would like to go there in about a week. I read that you can be of help with contact details? Can you please help me out as well?
Kind regards, Bianca
Hello,
I just read the article and found it very interesting! I really would like to get a tattoo done by this lovely old lady. I am in the Philippines right now and I would like to go there in about a week. I read that you can be of help with contact details? Can you please help me out as well?
Kind regards, Bianca
Hello,
I just read this blog and found it very interesting! I would like to get a tattoo by this lovely old lady. I am in the philippines right now and would like to go there in about a week. I read that you can help out with contact details? Can you please help me out as well?
Kind regards, Bianca
Hi Bibi! If you are decided, mind you, it's going to be the one of your memorable experiences. Should you need help, you can email me at maryannnzamora@yahoo.com.ph. I am sorry for the late reply, I just read your message.
Hello,
This is a great read! I'm traveling to the Philippines in 2 weeks and will be working my way up to Buscalan. I would really love to receive a tattoo from Whang-od if nothing else at least meet her. I was wondering if you could be of any assistance?
Thanks in advance,
Matt
(matthew.obrien@live.com.au)
Hi,
This is a great post!
I'm traveling to the Philippines in two weeks and will be heading up to Buscalan. I am hoping to receive a tattoo from Whang-od or at least meet her. I was wondering if you could be of some assistance? If so can you please email me :)
Thanks in advance,
Matt
(matthew.obrien@live.com.au)
Hi Matthew. I just responded to you, kindly check your email. Thanks!
WOW!!! I can't even bare look but what an adventure, and what a great experience to meet this historic individual.
I salute you my friend, you are one brave soul.
hi! leny here! great post. me and my friends are planning to go to Buscalan by end month. Can we also get the contact details of your guide? thank you. :)
Leny - ellepedeglorio@rocketmail.com
Thanks, Jam. Yes, I know the idea freaks most of the people but it is totally liberating to experience it. Cheers to more adventures!
Hi Leny! Thank you for dropping by to my blogspot and for liking it. Anyway, I responded to your question through your email address. Enjoy the adventure. Kindly send my regards to Kuya Charlie, his family and Whang-od.
Tribal Tattoo Designs -- The actual tribal tattoo has existed permanently, method prior to your own grandma and grandpa had been actually delivered. tattoos designs
Hello! Thank you for posting about your adventures. This looks amazing! I'm interested in visiting her and getting a tattoo myself when I go home to visit my family in Manila. Can you please tell me how I can arrange an appointment and a tour guide? And how I can get here from Manila? Thank you so much in advanced. My email address is aprilangeles@gmail.com
-April
Hi April!
I just sent you an email.
Thank you for taking the time reading my blog. Please know that you just inspired me to write more of my adventures and misadventures.
And by the way, kindly bring some goodies or matches for the community. Kids there would love to receive candies and chocolates and for the oldies they want to have matches.
After getting inked, Kuya Charlie will give you an organic ointment made from coconut oil. But for your protection, to be away from infection, you can bring with you a antibacterial wipes.
Enjoy your adventure,
Mai Zamora
Hello!
Thank you so much for sharing your adventures! i was especially excited to find this article because i ran into someone in thailand who had jut gotten inked by this lively lady and her graddaughter (who is apparently continuing the tradition!). Could you please send me the contact info for the guide you used? I would greatly appreciate it for the future!
Sazaubi@gmail.com
hi
My name is Livia and I am looking for information how to get to Whang-od,
I would like to get a tattoo or at least meet her..
Can you give me an advice?I arrive to Manila 8th of january.
thank you
livia.sybal@gmail.com
Hello Mai,
Thank you for sharing this great experience and adventure...
it's been a month now and still planning to go to buscalan and have a tattoo from Apo Whang Od...
still searching, reading blogs like this because this is really a big help.
If you can give me a guide and also the expenses... even a simple guide will be a big big help..
and also a contact number for a tour guide directly from buscalan... one blogsite suggest "John", Apo Whang Od's nephew as a tour guide but they never put info or contact number...
anyway thank you very much hope you can give a heads up on this
:)
take care and God bless
John Macaraig
- hackiuz@icloud.com
- 09982571616
- www.facebook.com/t1tuz
Hi, thank you so much for sharing your experience. I was wondering if you could email me information on how you were able to reach her (tour guide info, where she lives, pretty much what others have commented asking for). I want to travel to the Philippines one day soon and have a chance at receiving one of her tattoos.
ve845983@gmail.com
Thank you!
Hi Sarah, Livia, JM and John!
I sent you an email regarding your queries. Enjoy the beauty of Buscalan and the people.
Mai
Hey Mai,
I've been wanting to meet Whang Od for some time now and I am getting to travel to the Philippines this week! It looks like an unforgettable experience! I am wondering if you would mind sending the contact info to meet her and any other helpful info :) such as the cost.
Thank you very much!!
Zach
zach_hancock@hotmail.com
Hi Zach.
Thank you for trusting on my blog. I sent you a message thru your email address.
Enjoy the trip and the experience.
- Mai Zamora
Hi mai,
I'm Glenn. Been reading up on Apo Whang-Od and i'm planning to go to buscalan to get inked sometime March. I was hoping you can help me out in terms of sourcing out a guide and the expenses in getting there. My email address is gtuyengco@mnhport.com.ph.
Thanks in advance.
G
Hi Glenn!
I'll send you an email shortly re your query.
Thank you all for visiting my blogspot. I hope this is helpful for those who are interested to meet Apo Whang-od and for those who have Filipino culture and traditions.
Hi Mai,
Thank you for sharing your wonderful experiences!
I will be in Luzon next week and would really like to meet Apo Wang-Od and get a tottoo from her.
Would you be so kind to also email the exact contact details concerning the guide, loctaion, the costs etc.?
Thank you so much!
Rika (f.berlinghoff@gmail.com)
Hi Mai,
Thank you for sharing your wonderful experiences.
I will be in Luzon next week and would really like to meet Apo Whang-od and let her work her magic on me. ;)
Would you be so kind to also send me the details about contacting the guide, location and costs?
Thank you so much!
Rika
(f.berlinghoff at gmail.com)
Very cool. Wish I could get one from her. Thanks for sharing.. I really liked that picture of you and Apo Whang-od laughing...
I'm stateside, where do I even begin to set up an appointment?
Vince_sabio@hotmail.com
-Vince
Hi Rika and Vince, will respond thru your email accounts. Thank you for reading my blog. I appreciate your desire and interest to learn about Filipino culture.
Hello, I would love to meet and have this wonderful woman Whang tattoo me. Please let me know how I can locate/schedule meeting with her. Salamat!
Hey, so I just turned 18 and I wanted to go to Buscalan with my friends to visit Whang Od. I wanted to get a tattoo from her, and I wanted to ask the specifics basically. What you had to do, how much it costs, and more details on how to get there. (Where the jeeps are, which jeeps to ride on, contact details of the tour guide) Thanks!
Email: sydneychan008@gmail.com
Hi my name is Jade and I'm launching a tattoo magazine this year and I would love to travel and interview her can I please also have a way of reaching her I would soo gladly appreciate it to include her into an article of my magazine .
Hello Mai,
I'm a traveler from Spain and would love to meet and get a tattoo from Apo Wang Od. Can't find a better way to remember my experiences of this country.
Hope you can help me out with any information.
Thanks a lot.
jshivelfernandez@gmail.com
Thank you !
Hello Mai!
I'm a traveler from Spain and I would love to meet and get a tattoo from Apo Whamg Od. I would really apreciate any little information you could give me about this.
jshivelfernandez@gmail.com
Ps, your blog is amazing!
Juan
Hi Sydney Chan!
I just responded to your questions. Kindly check your email. Enjoy your Whang-od experience soon.
Hi Jade and the style drop!
Please send in your email address so I can give you the instructions on how to get to Apo Whang-od's place.
Thank you,
Mai
Hi Johnny/ Juan!
I just responded to your comment, kindly check your email.
I'll be very glad if you will visit my blog soon after getting inked by the legend Apo Whang-od. I'd love to hear your adventures in Buscalan and meeting the warm and accommodating people there.
Thank you so much for your kind words. That's so encouraging.
Thank you,
Mai
My email is Encrepur@yahoo.com
Hi Jade!
I just sent you an email.
Thank you,
Mai Zamora
Pahingi rin po yung details how to reach whang od.
Salamat
jones_ic@yahoo.com
Hi Mai,
I find very interesting and it will be an honor to have my first tattoo with Apo Whang-Od. Can you send me the details how to go there and what i need to bring. If you can include the expenses.
You can send it to my email: megpatz06@gmail.com
Million thanks,
Hi Megpatz and Jones!
Good day. I sent you the details through the email address you gave me.
Thank you,
Mai Zamora
Hi Mai,
MY name is Jasmine . I eager to get a tattoo from Whang before she passes-morbid to think about but we dont live forever lol. She has been blessed with a long life though. Could you give me details on: 1. Where do you fly into to get to her? 2. Do you know if she is still alive? 3. What was the experience like what can one expect? 4. How much does she charge? And anything else you may find useful to know.
Thanks!
jasminecbates17@gmail.com
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